Any seafood-savouring wine lover looking for a quick gourmet getaway would do well to head out to a special part of the Languedoc that frames the Étang de Thau; a stunning saltwater lagoon that’s home to one of the world’s most famous oyster farms.
It is by these shores that the vineyards of Picpoul de Pinet lie, producing grapes that make the citrusy, saline and rather trendy Picpoul wines that, helpfully, pair perfectly with the local shellfish.
To make the most of a long weekend in Picpoul country, take in the market town of Sète, its picturesque neighbour Bouzigues, Mèze in the middle and Marseillan to the west, with its bars, restaurants and a vibe that leans heavily on Noilly Prat Vermouth, which is made right in the centre of town.
Where to stay
Domaine Tarbouriech in Marseillan
Only 45 minutes from either Béziers or Montpellier airport, this boutique spa hotel with its own restaurant is your luxury option. With a choice of rooms, suites, lodges and even a separate house, there’s a clothes boutique on site; you can do yoga classes, and the team can organise tours out to the oyster beds or gastronomic walks and bike rides for you. It’s also part of the same team that owns the must-visit, waterside restaurant Le St Barth Tarbouriech (see below).
Rooms start at 266 euros, find more at domaine-tarbouriech.fr.
La Côte Bleue Motel in Bouzigues
A budget option but a beautifully placed one, this motel is right on the lagoon looking towards Sète and you can walk into Bouzigues in five minutes. The rooms are very basic, but there’s a fabulous swimming pool, and the restaurant is right on the water – perfect for pre-dinner sundowners.
From 89 euros per night, visit la-cote-bleue.fr.
Mèze Maison in Mèze
A unique home away from home, this 19th-century wine merchant’s house in Mèze old town makes a great base to explore as it’s equidistant between Sète and Marseillan. Also on the lagoon, with a pool and easy parking to boot, there are only four rooms here (all ensuite). You can book them separately or hire the whole house.
From 130 euros per night, visit mezemaison.com.
Time to play
Wine Tasting at Cave de l’Ormarine, Pinet
This is the best-known Picpoul wine producer, with vineyards overlooking the Étang de Thau. Drop into their tasting room to try the various styles of Picpoul wine before you buy, from the fresh and young aperitif styles to the more gastronomic, ‘lees-aged’ versions. There’s even a sparkling!
13 Avenue du Picpoul
Cooking Class with Joe le Cooker, Sète
Located in the wonderful covered food market ‘Les Halles’ in Sète, let the team take you for a guided tour of the local produce before you cook your own lunch. You can pick your dinner up on the way out too.
joelecooker.fr
Windsurfing on the Lagoon
The Étang de Thau is known to be one of the best spots for learning how to windsurf or wingfoil in France as it’s flat with no current and a nice, reliable wind from most directions. Mèze and Bouzigues are the most sheltered for beginners, whereas Marseillan gets a bit more bumpy action.
yacht-club-bouzigues.com | ventileau.com
Boat trip out to the oyster beds
Many small producers around Mèze offer these, as does Le St Barth. Go either via rib with a small group if you’re more adrenaline-seeking or take the more leisurely option in a boat with a larger group.
promenade-bateau-marseillan.com | horizonthau.fr
Vermouth Tour and Tasting at Noilly Prat, Marseillan
Noilly Prat is an iconic Vermouth, and this tour is multisensory and truly excellent. See the outdoor barrel yard, cellars, and blending house to learn how Vermouth is made, and finish with a tasting of the range.
noillyprat.com
Water Jousting, Sète
If your dates happen to fall between the 19th and 25th of August, Sète’s water jousting festival, Fête de la Saint-Louis, is on and is free to watch. Head to Cadre Royal, quai de la Résistance for daily tournaments Monday to Thursday.
Where to eat
Sète: ‘Les Halles’
Try the famous octopus pie ‘tielle sétoise’, which is sold at bakeries and the covered market ‘Les Halles’ in Sète. This is also a great place for a casual lunch as there are many drop-in options.
halles-sete.fr
Bouzigues: Le Grand Bleu
A lovely little, premium seafood restaurant set back from the water. Ask for a table upstairs and preferably by the window.
legrandbleu-bouzigues.fr
Mèze: Le 29
This is a very popular restaurant and a good choice if you need a break from seafood, though the grilled fish here is wonderful. The wine list is excellent too.
Marseillan: Le St Barth Tarbouriech
This is a stunning, yet rustic, waterfront restaurant right opposite the family’s oyster beds, so you can see where your food is coming from.
lestbarth.com
Maybe a box out?
One Minute Wine Ace: Picpoul de Pinet
In this part of the world, it’s all about Picpoul: the lemony, crisp white wine with a slick of salinity that makes it the ideal companion for oysters, mussels, fish and any kind of seafood. Here’s what you need to know:
The traditional French name for the grape here is actually ‘piquepoul ’, meaning ‘lip stinger’, thanks to its zingingly high acidity. The more modern, international spelling of Picpoul is becoming the norm, however.
While the grape is technically ‘piquepoul’, the appellation, i.e. the designated, quality-controlled area it comes from, is ‘Picpoul de Pinet’. This is the OG region for this grape worldwide, and it can only use ’de Pinet’ if it’s from here.
Most Picpoul de Pinet is drunk young and fresh. Increasingly though, we’re seeing it made ‘sur lie’, which means it’s had time ageing on its spent yeast cells, or fine ‘lees’, giving it a creamier weight and more savoury flavours. This is a more gastronomic wine that goes with heavier dishes.
Try before you fly
Ormarine ‘Villemarin’ Picpoul de Pinet 2025, £12.50 (£9.50 mix 6)
Your benchmark Picpoul de Pinet: zesty and crisp with intense notes of lemon peel, green apple and a mineral saltiness.
Ormarine ‘Cuvée Estela’ Sur Lies Fines, Picpoul de Pinet 2024, £15.50 (£14 mix 6)
A great example of a gastronomic Picpoul de Pinet, with more texture and more complex flavours of nectarine, peach and a touch of umami.
Majestic Wine
Factbox
Getting there: Fly into Montpellier or Béziers and hire a car as public transport is patchy. Uber works well here though, if driving abroad doesn’t appeal and nothing is more than 20 to 40 minutes away.
About the author
Helena Nicklin is a drinks writer and broadcaster. See more a helenasips.com and follow her on Instagram @HelenaSips.
