Words by Joanna Lobo
The first thing that strikes you is the silence. It is deep, it is restful, and peppered with birdsong. It is restorative. Amankora was the first Aman international hospitality brand permitted to open a hotel in the Kingdom. The first lodge was in Paro, opened in 2004 and today, there are five lodges across the country’s eastern and central valleys.
Amankora Thimphu sits in a pine forest just above town, close to the royal palaces (of the first and second king). Amankora translates to peace pilgrimage (aman for peace, and kora, meaning circular pilgrimage). Each lodge is built in a way to offer that sense of peace, and pilgrimage.
Hotel
All Amankora lodges were designed by the late architect, Kerry Hill, and have many similarities: rammed earth walls, wooden-framed windows (both government mandated), local wood and sometimes, even yak hair. The architecture is traditional dzong and you may feel like you are walking through a monastery. A set of three prayer wheels outside, and a small goodbye ceremony with prayers, will enforce that feeling.
The Thimphu lodge is a tall stone building, with a central courtyard, an entrance courtyard and lower levels offering spa facilities and a library. The library is one of the cosiest spots, overlooking a stream, and with a good collection of books on Bhutan and its inhabitants, human or otherwise. Every morning, this room becomes the space for yoga, and sound healing sessions. Upstairs, a small boutique sells a curated collection of Bhutanese textiles, jewellery, books, and Himalayan art.
This hotel has 16 suites, all of which look out onto the central courtyard. On cold evenings, a bonfire provides warmth. On warm mornings, people sit here to partake of breakfast and get their dose of Vitamin D for the day.
Evening meals are accompanied by music – a visually impaired person who plays traditional instruments with grace.
There are no mountain or valley views here, but they aren’t missed. Instead, the Thimphu lodge allows you to engage in the practice of shinrin yoku or forest bathing.
Room
The beauty of the Amankora properties is that each lodge has similar rooms and layouts: large open-plan bedrooms with a small sitting area by glass windows, plush king-size beds, and traditional bukhari.
A large freestanding bathtub segregates the living area from the en-suite, open-plan bathroom, clad in terrazzo. A key feature of the room is a traditional bukhari wood-burning stove positioned between the bedroom and bathroom. On cold nights, the staff will use stored wood and pine cones to create a little fireplace.
The twin vanities can be heated (you can adjust the temperature). It is one of those small luxuries you didn’t know you needed until it was handed to you.
Reading material in the room includes a handmade paper booklet detailing sites of interest, things to do, and how best to create a Bhutanese itinerary. There’s a pillow manual too, allowing you to choose which kind of pillow you wish to rest your head on. Laundry, and shoe cleaning services are complimentary.
Every night, the turndown service leaves a little gift behind on the bed – something local, and something spiritual like a prayer flag, or a prayer wheel keychain, or prayer beads.
There is no television or mini-bar here, but a competent tea and coffee cabinet with a sleek, minimalist Danish kettle, their own special blend of coffee, and teas that include the Cordyceps tea that contains Cordyceps Sinensis, a rare fungus.
Food and drink
The food at Amankora Thimphu is easily some of the best you will eat in the country, and the perfect blend of local Bhutanese fare with Western dishes. They offer vegan and vegetarian options too.
It starts with breakfast. Every day has a different healthy shot – expect turmeric or beetroot and herbal ingredients. They cure their own fish, which adds that saltiness to their eggs Benedict. They make their own kombucha, and most herbs and vegetables are sourced from their garden. The Bhutanese slow cooked short rib thukpa, is a warm, rich comforting dish that is worthy of repetition.
The all-day dining menu is a feast, and the Bhutanese dishes stand out again. Many of them use yak meat, but in non-traditional ways, like in the yak pad kra pow. The beverage selection includes house wines and classic cocktails.
To do
The lodge is situated within driving distance to many historic spots in Thimphu but they offer some experiences that go beyond the traditional sightseeing: high altitude golfing, catch and release fishing, a visit to an astrology school, and learning art with a local artist. The lodge can arrange hikes to the historic Phajoding Monastery – the first in the country, or to the nearby Takin Reserve to see the country’s national animal – a takin is an ungulate that is a cross between a goat, and antelope.
The Aman spa has traditional rituals, including the Bhutanese hot stone bath, a 1000 Gold Therapy, and a special ‘Jet Lag Reviver’.
Most evenings at the lodge feature a cultural programme, either a lama to talk about Buddhism or a dance performance. The musical performance is a highlight – men and women, clothed and masked leap about, their voices filling the quiet evening. Guests are served a little snack, and whiskey-tinged drink for warmth in case the bonfire isn’t enough. At the end of the performance, all the guests are invited to join in and do a small dance.
Of the food offering, if requested they will prepare a Forest and Stream Dinner – an intimate two- or four-person dining experience by the stream. A personal chef cooks in a little kitchen over an open flame, and serves up a feast of Bhutanese food. Go hungry: there will be a lot of food.
As with most starred hotels across Bhutan, there’s archery (the national sport) and darts in their expansive, flowering garden/ forest space. Someone will be there to guide you through the basics and watch you practise or perhaps, discover a hidden talent.
In a nutshell
Amankora Thimphu promises luxury and seclusion, and delivers on every aspect of it. It offers Bhutanese hospitality, with a modern touch that still feels rooted to the earth and their culture. You will sleep well here. Spend a few nights to best explore the property and its many experiences (and to acclimatise yourself if seeking higher altitudes).
Factbox
Address: Balakha Tshento, Drugyel 12001, Bhutan
Phone: +9752331333
Email: [email protected]
Website: aman.com
Hotel images courtesy of Aman Resorts
