Within the glitter-drenched theatrical playground of London’s Leicester Square, the city’s peak summer interval unashamedly revels in behaving like a Champagne-soaked socialite with a scandalously loose relationship with bedtime. Fizzing beneath blazing cinematic marquees as chauffeured arrivals sweep towards velvet roped premieres, the Capital’s impeccably groomed haute monde descend upon this high-gloss West End catwalk with one manicured hand already poised golden, and gloriously effervescent.
Slipping seductively from this feverish whirl, the sybaritic dining den of Whitcomb’s brazenly romances its beautifully dressed congregation with a softer Mediterranean pulse. Sun-ripened flavours married with citrus perfumed plates, all savoured within languorous terrace rituals conspire to turn a polished luncheon into several sparkling hours of delicious indiscretion, with the clock quietly forgotten as another chilled flute catches the light and London suddenly acquires the flirtatious swagger, of a Riviera afternoon.
Holding court within the five-star theatrical splendour of award-cocooned hotel utopia of The Londoner, polishing Leicester Square with its own glossy breed of contemporary glamour since 2021, Whitcomb’s had delighted in playing the poised sophisticate. Swathed in sculptural ceiling lines elevated against taintless creamy stone, brushed smooth marble meticulously plays to a muted palette of oceanic blues that fashion a sleek Riviera salon, specially for the West End’s beautifully coiffed set.
Come Summer that demure Whitcomb’s energy slips into something altogether more golden radiant, as the Veuve Clicquot Summer Terrace yet again brings a resplendent al fresco odyssey, right into the concrete wilderness of London with the spirited swagger of one of Champagne’s most beloved, palatial grande dame dynasties.
Founded in Reims in 1772, the Veuve Clicquot title is celebrated around the realm for Madame Clicquot’s pioneering legacy, including the creation of the first known vintage Champagne while its unmistakable golden yellow label has become a calling card for polished celebration across the seas, and today proudly sits with ceremonial pomp within the formidable luxury stable of the ultra luxe, LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton).
It is within this lavish, open-air oasis that thus storied pedigree acquires an invigorating Summer pulse, where Mediterranean languor meets London theatre as the gleam of golden bubbles married with an impeccably paired epicurean feast, all savoured amongst the balmy Leicester Square buzz together conspires in harmony to make the capital deliciously ready, for yet another Veuve Clicquot soaked season.
An ethereal golden wonderland framing a tranquil serene corner right outside The Londoner, the Whitcomb’s captivating terrace provides an elegant open-air backdrop, twinned with an unmistakable sense of occasion which unearthed Veuve Clicquot’s iconic sun-bright yellow blazed across logo-emblazoned cushions and flaxen parasols, while striped upholstery and lacquered table details had intricately sharpened up the champagne house’s playful visual signature with polished confidence, and a deliciously irreverent flash of chic luxury.
Dots of bistro style seating had effortlessly invited languid daytime lounging and golden-hour toasts, its tailored silhouettes softened by plush branded accents and the warm gleam of lantern light whilst around the charming vivacious setting, brightly bold botanicals had surged through abundant seasonal displays uncovering saturated tangerine blooms pressed against glossy verdant foliage, creating a lush Mediterranean cocoon rich in vivid hues, and sun-soaked escapism.
As the dusky hours come to settles in, dainty delicate fairy lights are threaded throughout the vibrant greenery to cast a molten honeyed shimmer across the terrace, heightening its intimate after-dark allure to showcase an irresistibly spirited effect, created to allow the decorative drama to taper elegantly into the next indulgence of sybaritic dining, where infectious atmosphere paves the flaxen glittering path to gastronomical flavours.
Whitcomb’s presents its Champagne Art Gallery as an immersive gastronomical odyssey where the pleasure of discovery comes dressed in considerably more glamorous attire, inviting its Champagne fluent congregation to glide through The Grand Hall, The Gallery Lounge, The Rich Chambers and The Champagne Vault as though perusing the private collection of some fabulously extravagant connoisseur, each precious pour accompanied by tasting notes and spirited storytelling designed to illuminate the personality behind the bottle.
The à la carte menu keeps the reverie firmly anchored to the Mediterranean, drawing upon sun ripened produce, coastal abundance and peak seasonal ingredients to fashion a polished catalogue of dishes that celebrates freshness without sacrificing an ounce of indulgence.
My own liquid curtain raiser came drenched in rosy decadence courtesy of the Velvet Rosé Indulgence, a ravishing scarlet temptress where Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label and the crystal clean silkiness of Belvedere vodka slipped into luscious fresh strawberry and fragrant green strawberry bitters, before a voluptuous veil of Chantilly cream and Champagne marinated fruit bestowed each sip with a soft, berry laden richness that flirted shamelessly with dessert.
The Ember of Andalusia promptly brought considerably more heat to the table, Veuve Clicquot Rosé and Volcán tequila creating a spirited marriage of fine bubbles and earthy agave, while harissa and Piment d’Espelette released a warming savoury pulse beneath the bright tang of tamarillo, vanilla softness and orange kissed Cointreau.
It was then that came a plate positively demanding a camera before a fork; the hot honey and feta dip with its snowy pillows of whipped feta luxuriating in a glossy amber pool of wild honey, scattered with jewel green pistachios, fragrant herbs and edible blossoms. The cool, salted creaminess melted across warm artisan crisp breads before the honey released its mellow sweetness and the nuts delivered their toasted crunch. Hot on its heels came southern spiced wings, bronzed and crisp on the outside yet succulently juicy within, their gutsy southern seasoning leaving behind a teasing warmth that made another chilled Champagne sip feel less like a suggestion and more like a necessity.
The starters arrived with equal swagger as the seabass ceviche married pristine, meaty cubes of fish with juicy watermelon, lime brightness, verdant coriander and a flicker of jalapeño heat, delivering a refreshing collision of sweet, saline and citrus sharpness, while the Jamón Ibérico croquettes concealed an intensely savoury, molten heart of cured ham and Manchego beneath their delicate golden crust, finished with creamy jalapeño mayonnaise for a peppery little kick.
Accompanying proceedings was The Elevation Champagne Flight, poured with suitable theatre from majestic Veuve Clicquot magnums into those unmistakable slender flutes, beginning with the bright citrus and orchard fruit freshness of Yellow Label, moving through the richer red berry character of Brut Rosé, before La Grande Dame 2018 swept in with finer mousse, elegant minerality and a poised tapestry of ripe fruit and delicate toast.
But it was main affair of the A5 Wagyu Fillet proved a carnivore’s rhapsody, its prime centre cut flesh yielding with almost indecent tenderness as the prized marbling released its buttery richness, sharpened beautifully by the sinus tingling warmth of wasabi butter and a verdant flash of jalapeño oil.
The Truffle Chicken Milanese was no less seductive, its brittle golden crumb surrendering to succulent chicken beneath, crowned with a glossy fried hen’s egg before earthy truffle and silken Gorgonzola dolce crème swept across the palate in a gloriously rich embrace, while peppery parmesan rocket provided just enough freshness to restore a little decorum. Fragrant truffle and Parmesan fries supplied further edible wickedness, joined by market greens of Tenderstem broccoli and wilted spinach tossed with golden fried garlic, chilli and lemon, their bright vegetal bite cutting neatly through the indulgence.
With the final savoury plates came another generous pour of Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2018, its refined sparkle and graceful acidity slicing elegantly through Wagyu richness and truffle decadence, while the terrace remained awash in golden bubbles, polished glassware and the easy glamour of a London summer afternoon that had long since abandoned any sensible relationship with the clock, leaving only one deliciously effervescent verdict still to be delivered.
In a nutshell
‘Only one quality, the finest’ – Madame Clicquot
Madame Clicquot’s uncompromising maxim feels deliciously at home within this gilded Leicester Square liaison, where Whitcomb’s and Veuve Clicquot have transformed the familiar summer terrace into a polished playground for London’s Champagne fluent haute monde, marrying Mediterranean appetite with the unmistakable golden swagger of a maison that has spent more than two centuries making celebration look exceedingly chic.
What elevates the collaboration beyond another photogenic seasonal pop up is the conviction behind it, with the Champagne Art Gallery bringing wit and discovery to every pour, the kitchen answering with a sensuous procession of ingredient led indulgence, and the terrace itself providing the kind of sun-soaked refuge where one civilised flute develops a wicked habit of becoming several. For the discerning epicurean who considers summer incomplete without exquisite cuisine, immaculate bubbles and a little glamorous excess, Whitcomb’s serves the season exactly as Madame Clicquot would surely demand it, with nothing less than the finest.
Factbox
The Veuve Clicquot Summer Terrace At Whitcomb’s runs until approximately mid-September.
Address: 38 Leicester Square, London, WC2H 7DX
Telephone: 0207 451 0101
Website: thelondoner.com/restaurants-bars/whitcombs/summer-terrace
