It’s official: We’ve found Wiltshire’s best kept secret.
In fact, it’s so good that part of us almost wants to gate-keep it, because much of The Great Bustard’s charm lies in its relative anonymity. It has that wonderful feeling of a place known only to those in the know, and after a stay here, you feel rather pleased to have joined the club.
There is absolutely no snobbery to any of it, either. Quite the opposite. The clientele is wholesome, charming and effortlessly stylish; a mixture of locals, weekenders and those who clearly know a very good thing when they find it. Dogs snooze beneath tables, glasses of wine are poured in the garden and conversations drift happily across the dining room.
From the moment we arrived, the welcome was warm and wonderfully unfussy. There’s an immediate sense of our house is your house here. Bags are whisked away, smiles are genuine and within minutes you feel less like you’ve checked into a hotel and more like you’ve arrived at the rather fabulous country home of a friend.
So, where is this almighty place, you ask? The Great Bustard sits in Great Durnford in the Wiltshire countryside, just 15 minutes from Salisbury. Your little black book might just be complete.
In a nutshell, it is a countryside pub and restaurant with rooms, although that description rather undersells what has been created here.
The original village pub has been lovingly taken over and elevated, but importantly, its roots have been respected. You can still wander in for a pint seven days a week, as any great country pub should allow. Beyond it sits a light-filled restaurant atrium, beautifully restored outbuildings housing bedrooms, a shepherd’s hut dedicated to spa treatments and a picturesque courtyard and garden made for long lunches and al fresco drinks.
The Michelin Guide describes The Great Bustard as an “immaculate, beautifully restored property blending country warmth with bright, modern dining,” and we couldn’t agree more.
There are just 10 rooms in total, split between the main building and the surrounding outbuildings, giving the entire place an intimate, almost private feel.
We stayed in Capercaillie, a ground-floor room that had us sold the moment we opened the door. Rich burgundies sit alongside deep greens, oak flooring, sisal rugs and carefully chosen antique touches. The overall effect is luxurious country house rather than overly polished hotel; think warm, cocooning and full of character.
And then there’s the bed. Plush, cloud-like and almost dangerously comfortable, it delivered one of those increasingly rare hotel experiences where you climb in, disappear beneath the duvet and wake up wondering how on earth you slept quite that well. After an evening of exquisite food and wine, we had one of the best nights’ sleep we’d had in a very long time.
The en suite is equally beautiful, with a gorgeous walk-in shower and the same attention to detail that runs throughout the property.
And attention to detail is something The Great Bustard does exceptionally well. Which brings us to the food. Can we take a moment to give complete kudos to head chef Jordan Taylor?
He has created a seasonal, hyper-local food offering across both the pub and restaurant that manages to strike a very clever balance. You can arrive hungry from a country walk and grab something relaxed, or dress for dinner and make an evening of it. We love that The Great Bustard allows you to do both.
On arrival, we sat outside in the sunshine and shared sourdough pizzas in the garden, exactly the sort of wonderfully simple start a countryside escape should have.
By evening, however, things had moved up several gears. Jordan champions produce grown, reared and sourced quite literally on the restaurant’s doorstep: vegetables plucked from the estate garden, game from the surrounding ancient woodlands and trout from Wiltshire’s famous chalk streams.
There is something incredibly special about eating food with such a tangible sense of place. You’re not simply being told that ingredients are local; you can look around you and see where much of the inspiration on the plate began.
Our dinner was exceptional.
We ate in the glass atrium, and every table was taken. Far from detracting from its hidden-gem status, the full dining room gave the evening a gorgeous buzz. Couples settling in for date night, friends sharing bottles of wine and guests making an occasion of dinner; stylish, but never showy.
Our sommelier guided us through the wine list and recommended bottles to complement the evening – and, quite simply, wow. Knowledgeable without ever making wine feel intimidating, it added another layer to what was already becoming a rather memorable night.
Three courses followed, each one beautifully considered and exquisitely presented. Presentation is clearly taken seriously here, but importantly, substance is never sacrificed for style. The food is elevated without becoming fussy, confident without trying too hard. It’s exactly how modern British country dining should feel.
There is also a private dining room for those planning birthdays, celebrations or special occasions.
And then there’s The Golden Eagle. Housed inside a shepherd’s hut, The Great Bustard’s treatment room is yet another unexpected addition to the experience. Treatments range from manicures and pedicures to 90-minute massages, maternity massage and its signature Awakening treatments, which I booked.
I booked the Upper Body Awakening treatment and can personally recommend it. I emerged feeling heavenly with my shoulders dropped, mind quiet and walking on air. It is precisely the sort of indulgence that makes you wonder why every countryside weekend doesn’t include a massage.
Ultimately, The Great Bustard is about much more than somewhere to sleep or somewhere to eat, it’s about a feeling.
That glorious reminder to slow down a little. To change pace. To drink a glass of wine in a garden without looking at the time. To sleep deeply, eat beautifully and breathe in the British countryside.
Londoners looking for their next escape should be putting Great Durnford into the sat-nav immediately. It feels a world away from the pace of the capital, yet is close enough for an indulgent weekend away.
For those lucky enough to live locally? Support it. Places like this are rare: independently spirited, beautifully executed and ambitious enough to create something exceptional without losing sight of the community and countryside around them.
Before you reluctantly leave, make time for one final stop at the on-site Pantry. Charming, it stocks fruit and vegetables from the kitchen garden alongside freshly made Durnford jams, chutneys, pickles, home-infused alcohols and oils. It’s a little haven for picking up a gift, a parting souvenir or, perhaps, something to soften the blow of heading home.
The Great Bustard feels like the kind of place you discover once and then quietly recommend to everyone you really like.
Although perhaps not everyone. Some secrets are worth keeping, after all.
Factbox
Rooms from £200 Bed and Breakfast
Address: Great Durnford, Salisbury SP4 6AY
Phone: 01722 703582
Email: [email protected]
Website: thegreatbustard.uk
