Fur was once a major design choice for luxury fashion brands, but for quite some time, it has been replaced by faux-fur alternatives that make an appearance on the catwalks every now and again. But this year, autumn and winter catwalk shows were once again dominated by fur – both real, and imitation – and from plush coats to shearling jackets, it appears to be making a comeback.
A revival that appeared to start as far back as 2024, both high-end designers and mainstream fashion brands are leaning into fur once more, but while the vast majority of this is comprised of increasingly sophisticated faux-fur alternatives, this isn’t always the case, and it can’t help but raise some questions around ethics and the environment.
Fur’s fashion comeback
The renewed interest in soft and sumptuous furry textures can in part be attributed to the nostalgia that has continued to influence fashion trends over the past few years, with 1990s maximalism a particularly strong one currently, but nods to 80s style and mid-century fashion also notable across many modern fashion connections.
Because of the early favouring of fur by esteemed luxury brands, the material’s association with opulence and prestige was established long ago, but while many now refuse to purchase real fur due to ethical and sustainable reasons, increasingly realistic-looking alternatives are still as popular as ever before and still serve as the same kind of status symbol thanks to their glamorous aesthetics.
It’s not surprising that modern designers are revisiting those visual codes, with fur-like textures appearing repeatedly across Autumn/Winter 2024 catwalk shows and continuing into 2025 – as well as, it now appears, 2026.
Fur – whether it’s the real deal from Casiani, or a realistic alternative, doesn’t just look good; it delivers on a practical level, too. Offering unmatched warmth and comfort during warm winter weather, it’s hard to find a material that performs while looking so elegant, so it’s easy to see why it continues to remain in favour.
The controversy of real fur
But make no mistake; real fur remains a controversial choice, and one that many modern consumers strictly avoid due to ethical and sustainability reasons. Mink coats might once have been the go-to choice, but a large number of major fashion brands have adopted, and continue to stand by, fur-free policies, and London Fashion Week does not permit fur to feature in any of its catwalk shows.
Animal cruelty remains a key concern, and welfare organisations continue to campaign hard to prevent the real deal from making a comeback. Having fought so hard to get where we are, they are determined not to see the progress reverse, and continue to highlight the treatment of animals used by the industry and the environmental impacts associated with farming and processing in a bid to educate both those who may still have a fur coat or two in their wardrobe, and those who have simply never thought about the origins of their purchases.
The faux fur question
To further complicate matters, faux fur might look almost identical, but it doesn’t come without its challenges, either. The best and most expensive faux furs have been meticulously crafted to ensure they offer the same texture and softness of real fur, but while choosing them does mean no animals are harmed during the sourcing and manufacturing process, it doesn’t mean they are a neutral choice when it comes to the environment.
Many consumers are not aware that the synthetic fibres, like polyester and acrylic, that are used in many faux furs come from raw materials derived from fossil fuels. Synthetic textiles can also shed tiny plastic fibres during washing and wear, some of which can enter wastewater, ultimately making their way into the wider environment and thus contributing to plastic pollution.
So while they do help consumers to avoid one pertinent issue, they are not the perfect alternative many believe they are, and for those conscious about their environmental impact, offer food for thought.
The modern alternatives
With these facts in mind, a growing number of luxury brands are seeking out more innovative alternatives that avoid the issues associated with common synthetic faux fur materials, their origins and their processing methods.
Designers are experimenting with materials such as wool, feathers and cashmere and using modern techniques to turn them into fabrics that mimic the appearance and feel of real fur, but it remains very much a work in progress.
To mitigate the impact of their designs on the environment, some brands are also embracing the use of recycled materials in their collections, as well as launching their own resale partnerships and trade-in schemes to encourage their garments to be worn and loved again by someone else once their owners are ready to part with them for good.
The bottom line
Fur-like materials might be making a comeback, but the modern fashion landscape is a far more complex one than when the material first became viewed as a prestigious and opulent choice.
Today’s consumers are more discerning than ever before – particularly in the realm of luxury – and designers therefore face significant challenges when it comes to bringing it back into their collections whilst aligning with an evolving set of demands. The cultural and regulatory environments certainly look different in 2026, but the most forward-thinking and innovative brands are already striding ahead, working hard to come up with solutions that satisfy on all counts and eliminate all of the controversies around fur – both real, and fake.
