Lord of the Highlands sails a unique route, across the seas to the Inner Hebrides islands of Mull and Iona, then through the deep slash of the Great Glen Fault, hosting the Caledonian Canal, to Inverness. With just 19 cabins, crew quickly learning guests’ names and their favourite drinks; there’s an intimate aura to a tartan-dressed six-night cruise that has the warm welcome of a country house party.
Hebridean Island Cruises have a generous definition of all-inclusive that extends beyond three meals a day and drinks, notably featuring 26 single malt whiskies behind the bar. On every excursion, our guide Colin dashes ahead to pay for excursions and to set up a tab in the café for guests.
David Barnes, our historian for the cruise, is another star. As well as this author’s scheduled presentations on Iona and the consequences of the Battle of Culloden, he is always willing to answer questions, expand on his talks and listen to guests’ theories. On two evenings, after dinner, musicians and dancers bring the Gaelic Renaissance on board with their vibrant performances.
The ship
The Lord of the Highlands is the largest ship to sail the Caledonian Canal between Inverness and Fort William.
Ascending a quarter of a mile through the eight locks which make up Neptune’s Stairway at Fort William, the ship becomes something of a tourist attraction as there are but inches to spare on either side.
Crew are always willing to open maps to show our routes as we sail first from Oban to Craignure on Mull and then return past the 10-mile-long island of Lismore as we head to the entrance to the Caledonian Canal.
The cabin
Dark wood and nautical brass give an Admiral Hornblower vibe to the décor. You can imagine an admiral sat at the desk, whisky decanter to hand, as he plans a campaign. Like a floating five-star boutique hotel, a chocolate and the ‘morrow’s programme are delivered as part of the evening turn-down service.
Service is exceptionally slick. The morning make-up of rooms is usually complete by the time guests return from breakfast. Whisky decanters are topped up, if required; tea, coffee and shortbread biscuits replenished, too.
Food and drink
Sailing from Oban, Scotland’s seafood capital, it is no surprise when the first morning’s breakfast special is a delicately smoked kipper with a poached egg; just one of the items on the menu that is cooked to order. Obviously, porridge is an appropriate favourite, though most guests opt to drizzle honey rather than the offered whisky.
Seafood features on many of the three-course lunch and dinner menus; monkfish in a light curry, scallops and lobster starring. Every menu also offers a vegan option.
Those menus provide tasting notes on the day’s red and white wines. As dinner progresses, the wine waiter introduces the day’s dessert wine and port, ideal accompaniment for a cheese board that changes daily. After the visit to the Mull Cheese Farm and tastings, cheese lovers are delighted when the farm’s award-winning cheddar appears.
For a five-course gala dinner on the last night, a skirl of bagpipes announces the entry of the haggis, followed by Rabbie Burns’ famous address. As ever guests appreciate free seating so that they can mingle with newfound friends.
Ashore
This voyage begins with an exploration of crescent-shaped Tobermory, on Mull, curving around a harbour where porpoises plunge. On the craggy edge of Europe, Mull’s wildness attracts the free spirits of artists and crafters, their creations filling galleries and shops.
A visit to Duart Castle, on a storm-lashed promontory, overlooking the Sound is a reminder of Mull’s turbulent past. Once a blood-soaked clansman’s fortification, Duart is now an arts and crafts themed gentleman’s home.
Wild weather and choppy seas prevent us from visiting Iona. Instead, historian David spins through the centuries to capture Iona’s spiritual aura for us, emphasising the significance of Columba’s remote abbey in keeping the flame of Christianity flickering through the Dark Ages. A free afternoon gives us the opportunity to take a tour of the Mull Cheese farm and to taste their award-winning cheddar. Creatively and sustainably the firm distils spirits, such as Whey Ski, from cheese production’s waste products.
Sailing through the Linnhe sea-loch, Captain Jim lingers for a superb view of Glen Coe, before arriving at the entry to the Caledonian Canal at Carpach Basin. This is a base for a Glenfinnan excursion to visit the monument marking Bonnie Prince Charlie’s arrival on Scottish soil in 1745 and for superb views of the Glenfinnan viaduct that features in the Harry Potter movies.
After sailing through the canals linking Loch Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness we arrive at Inverness for our afternoon at the sombre Culloden Battlefield and Visitor Centre. At the heart of the exhibits is a short film, shown on four sides of standing visitors, creating the brutality of a battle that saw the Jacobite Rebellion crushed in a mere hour. David tells us that launched a wave of retribution which dampened Scottish identity for many decades.
In a nutshell
A luxurious small ship cruise for connoisseurs of cheese, culture, gourmet meals, history, seafood, whisky and wine. It is a slow-travel voyage that lingers to appreciate both the Inner Hebrides and a spectacular passage through the Caledonian canal. Having both a guide and historian on-board enables guests to delve deep into the layers of Celtic culture and history.
Factbox
2026 prices for Lord of the Highlands start from £3,281 per person for a six-night Autumn in Caledonia cruise from Oban to Inverness departing 17th October. Price includes all meals and drinks, excursions, port taxes and transfers between Oban and Inverness.
Phone: 01756 634933
Email: [email protected]
Website: hebridean.co.uk
Images courtesy of Hebridean Island Cruises unless otherwise credited
