Words by Graeme Culliford
When holidaying on the Island of the Winds, most people seem drawn to the clamour of Mykonos town: that warren of white cubic houses and cow hide patterned pavements that form the beating heart of the Greek island. They wish to be within walking distance of the bars and nightclubs where you can dance into the early hours alongside the glamorous, jet set visitors, as well as the designer boutiques and romantic, ocean facing restaurants offering sunset views and fine dining menus.
But being based in Chora, as the locals call it, tourists are also choosing to be trapped inside a sweltering fishbowl of madding crowds and influencers elbowing rivals out of the way to get that perfect picture. All the things that make peak summer season such an ordeal.
When I arrived in early July, I felt fortunate to find myself in the five-star Once in Mykonos hotel, perched high above sparkling Ornos Bay with its ribbon of reasonably priced bars and restaurants. Sitting on the terrace, I experienced peace and calm while enjoying a sumptuous breakfast – along with my new favourite drink, a Fredo Espresso – while watching boats drift along the Aegean.
The Louis Hotels property proved to be the perfect location to explore the island. Just a 15-minute drive from the din of the main town, it is also within walking distance of the harbour and for those with a hire car, parking could not be easier.
Hotel
The first feature that grabbed my attention as I hopped off the golf buggy that transported me to the summit of this historic hillside property, was the view. Arriving after dark, I was greeted by a half crown of twinkling lights that glowed dramatically against the ocean’s inky expanse.
Waking up the following morning, the panoramic view was even more spectacular: a cerulean sky framing a tranquil, olive-coloured bay lit up by an undulating carpet of bright diamonds. The sun was intense, and the wind was fierce, a perpetual Cycladic feature that proved to be a relief as Europe sweltered in yet another heatwave.
The boutique hotel mixes classic Mykonos chic with modern touches. It is also somewhat famous as it was previously a luxury private villa in which celebrities and politicians were entertained by the owner. The lobby is beautifully decorated and sits next to a little glass fronted shop packed full of clothes by local designers.
However, the real centrepiece is the infinity pool with a sunken seating area that, ringed with olive trees, comfy grey loungers and rattan umbrellas, backs onto an al fresco restaurant where I got to taste my first Freddo Espresso (a double espresso shaken with ice then poured over ice cubes) – the perfect respite as the temperature hit 30 degrees.
Room
The rooms are uniformly bohemian and off-white, and all come with sea views. My standard double was modestly sized – the bathroom boasted Frederic Malle toiletries but was not big enough to swing a cat in – and opened on to a terrace with a seating area and a stunning view of the bay that was a joy to wake up to every morning.
It was functional and well-appointed with a king-sized bed, a simple white desk, a trellised wardrobe, hanging lamps and wooden floors providing a modern, Cyclades vibe. Those needing more space can splash out on two-bedroom suites featuring private pools, hot tubs and outdoor dining areas.
Food and drink
My only complaint about the hotel is that the huge variety of food on offer turned me into an absolute glutton. Breakfast involved pastries, fresh fruit and mounds of whipped Greek yoghurt followed by eggs, pancakes and bacon. There was also a charcuterie section with cheese, meat, cold fish and salad. A selection of local delicacies changed daily and included Kagiana – a mixture of scrambled eggs, tomatoes and feta.
On the days when I was trying to be healthy, I would order a freshly made omelette (washed down with a Fredo Espresso, of course). The Mediterranean-inspired Infinity restaurant is also where guests head for lunch and dinner and if, like me, you have zero self-restraint, you will consume an obscene amount of Greek salad and dips followed by delicious grilled fish and meat. A real highlight was the tender filet steak that came with chimichurri sauce and a generous serving of golden, crispy baked potatoes. For those who want to head out, several highly recommended restaurants are scattered across Ornos Bay.
To do
The hotel includes the SOSPA! 360 wellbeing experience with a full menu of massages, including one on a water bed, and a small gym with a modest array of equipment.
Stroll down to the harbour and you can board an ocean vessel to enjoy an aquatic journey around the island. Our speed boat, booked through Don Blue Prime Yachting, was so powerful that it made a mockery of Mother Nature as it sliced through the waves. We dropped anchor at two picturesque bays and sipped on bubbles paired with fresh fruit before leaping into the bracing turquoise water.
Later, we headed to the upmarket beach club Hippie Fish, where the grilled sea bass was exceptional. The following day, our group headed to SantAnna beach club, a trendy spot with a glamorous crowd. We lazed on sun loungers and enjoyed a long lunch before the arrival of a dozen shots – accompanied by Abba music – signalled that the party had started.
Those wanting to see a different side to the island should head to Rizes Farmstead, where burly, tattooed waiters serve up a feast of unpretentious grilled meat alongside melt-in-the-mouth sliced potatoes. And no trip would be complete without at least one visit to Chora, highlights of which include Little Venice – rows of fishing houses with their balconies hanging over the sea – and the windmills that have become a defining feature of the landscape.
In a nutshell
The perfect location for those that want to relax away from the crowds whilst exploring everything the island has to offer.
Factbox
easyJet holidays offers seven nights at the five-star Once in Mykonos on a bed and breakfast basis for £1,480 per person including 23kg of luggage per person, transfers and flights from London Gatwick on select September 2026 departures.
Address: Ornos Beach, Mykonos, Greece, Ornos 846 00, Greece
Phone: +30 2289 022100
Website: onceinmykonos.com
Images courtesy of Once in Mykonos.
