I spent 20 hours on a luxury train through the American West built for unplugging — here’s what it was like

As a professional travel writer, I fly a lot — 16 flights and 30,000 miles in the first quarter of 2026 (but who’s counting?) — and I know all about the thrills and also the many indignities and stresses of commercial air travel. The TSA lines, the liquids, the government shutdowns of it all… it’s so rewarding, but it can also be a lot.  So when I boarded a luxury train designed to represent the exact opposite, I knew this would be a different kind of experience and a major novelty.

After spending roughly 20 hours over three days on board Canyon Spirit — the newly rebranded U.S. operation of the scenic trainline formerly known as Rocky Mountaineer — I can say this: It’s not just a different way to travel. It’s a return to a much slower, more analog version of travel (and indeed life). And it’s the domestic travel experience you never knew you needed.

A bucket-list trip where the journey is the point

I’ve known about this trip for years — the scenic rail experience where, as they say, the journey is the destination — but I’d never before had the chance to ride. So when I got the invite to ride the very first Canyon Spirit departure on its expanded route from Denver to Salt Lake City, I was thrilled for the chance to check off a true bucket-list item.

The trip unfolds over three days, with overnight stops in Glenwood Springs, Colorado, and Moab, Utah — and from the very beginning, the tone is clear: You’re here to slow down and be present.

One of the first things we heard from train manager Keith Cooper on board was this simple directive: relax. “I want you to be really focused on the keyword ‘relax,’” he told my fellow travelers and me. “This is a rare opportunity to unplug from the real world and look out the window and take that deep breath… and I challenge you to find a more beautiful route throughout the continental U.S.”

The trip surely bore out that promise, unfurling an array of stunning natural landscapes, geological marvels, and historical landmarks, all amid a dramatically changing backdrop. The trees, the landscape, the color of the rock, the river flowing alongside you for hundreds of miles — everything unfolds with striking variety, underscoring the true natural beauty of America (at a time when a little reminder about our country’s virtue and splendor comes in handy for morale).

The destinations are part of the experience, too

While the train is very much the main event, the overnight stops add another layer to the experience — and give you a chance to stretch your legs and explore places you might not otherwise visit.

Our first stop was Glenwood Springs, a charming mountain town known for its historic hot springs… and home to the largest hot springs pool in the world. It’s also where Doc Holliday is buried — a detail I especially appreciated, having just re-watched Tombstone (Val Kilmer at his finest!).

We stayed at the historic Hotel Colorado, established 1893, with deep roots in the area (it served as a kind of remote White House for President Roosevelt in 1905) — the kind of place that leans way into its past, with a sense of old-school character that fits perfectly with the spirit of the journey.

The next stop, Moab, offered a completely different landscape — and energy. Red rock formations, wide-open skies, and that unmistakable desert light.

Here, the itinerary included a van excursion into Arches National Park, which ended up being one of the highlights of the trip. We visited iconic sights like Double Arch and Balanced Rock, with the flexibility to explore at your own pace and preference — whether that meant a more active hike or simply taking in the views. (I scrambled close to the top of the Double Arch formation… but not quite up to the sheer drop!)

In Moab, the evening was more relaxed: a casual dinner, a little souvenir shopping, and time to unwind. I even attempted some stargazing from our hotel’s hot tub (it’s a dark sky location), though the clouds didn’t quite cooperate.

Together, these stops break up the journey in a way that feels intentional and completely harmonious — not over-programmed, just enough to complement the time on board.

It’s like a guided luxury tour — no logistics required

One of the most striking parts of the experience is just how easy everything feels.

You don’t sleep on the train — you overnight in hotels along the route — but you never have to think about your luggage. You leave it behind by the door in your room in the morning, and it simply appears in your next hotel room when you arrive, as if the work of magical logistics elves.

It’s the kind of seamless, behind-the-scenes coordination that makes the whole trip feel almost effortless — like a fully planned guided luxury tour with all of the logistics taken out of your hands and tended seamlessly behind the scenes.

There’s no managing logistics, no rushing from place to place, no figuring out transfers or timing. You just… show up, sit down, look out the window, and let the journey unfold.

As someone who is usually juggling a million details while traveling (and occasionally letting some slip through the cracks, at great expense and frustration), that alone felt like a tremendous luxury.

A full return to analog travel

This is not a trip built around productivity or multitasking. It’s built around presence.

There’s no Wi-Fi on board — entirely by design. Instead, the experience leans into simple, analog pleasures: looking out the window, reading a book, having a conversation, lingering over libations.

You can walk freely between cars, grab a snack in the lounge car, step out onto the open-air observation deck (my favorite part), and just take it all in. At one point, I caught the unmistakable scent of pine as we passed through higher elevations near the Continental Divide — a full sensory moment that evoked happy memories of camping in my earlier life, except on a luxury train (more suitable to my current sensibilities).

I’ll admit, as a working journalist in a train car full of other travel and transportation reporters from around the world, I didn’t fully unplug as much as I might have on a true vacation. (You might have found me leaning out from the observation deck for a clear view of the sky to activate my T-Mobile satellite plan, but don’t judge me.) But even so, the rhythm of the trip naturally nudges you in that direction — whether you’re ready for it or not.

The food and drink are a central part of the experience

Food isn’t an afterthought here — it’s a major part of the journey.

Meals are served right at your seat, so you never have to miss the scenery, and the menus are deeply rooted in the region you’re traveling through, with local ingredients and thoughtful pairings throughout.

For breakfast on the first day, I chose the garden veggie frittata with roasted peppers and tomatillo salsa; other options included golden sugar waffles with raspberry coulis and Colorado honey, or a wild mountain berry parfait with house-made granola and local berries.

Another day, I chose a bison Benedict (hold the bison, as I don’t eat meat).

Lunch and dinner continue that theme, with dishes like lemon and herb roasted chicken with citrus herb rice, honey-glazed Colorado trout, and chipotle pineapple sticky beef ribs, all paired with regional wines. (I chose vegetarian options; other dietary restrictions, like gluten-free, can also be accommodated.)

For me, the most standout part of the culinary experience was an afternoon tea service featuring smoked salmon blinis, cucumber cream cheese sandwiches, chilled tomato tartlets, classic raisin scones with clotted cream, and an array of beautiful little sweets, alongside flavorful teas — either hot or iced, spiked or alcohol-free.

And if you want to lean into the beverage side, there’s a full program of local wines, Colorado beers, and premium spirits. I did a whiskey tasting with a high-energy onboard host, Leigh, that showcased regional distilleries — equal parts informative and fun. (She sold me on Denver-based Leopold Bros.’ spirits, with her enthusiasm for the brand.)

This is a front-row seat to the American West — and the scenery is constantly changing

Of course, the real star is the landscape.

The train winds through canyons, alongside the Colorado River for miles, and across terrain that shifts dramatically over the course of the journey — from alpine environments to red rock desert.

With the glass-domed cars and expansive windows, it never feels like you’re just passing through. You’re in it.

Who will love the Canyon Spirit train journey

This is the kind of trip that works for a wide range of travelers — from older generations to train enthusiasts to anyone interested in American geography and history. I’ve already recommended it to my parents and my in-laws (and, de facto, to all of my Instagram followers of every age who ate up my drool-worthy photos from the experience in real time).

But more than anything, it’s for people who are open to (or yearning for) a different pace — and willing to embrace the idea that travel doesn’t have to be fast or far-flung to be truly meaningful…. even transformational.

My takeaway

As someone who spends a lot of time navigating airports and tightly packed itineraries, this felt like a reset.

No security lines. No rushing. No constant need to optimize every moment — in fact, it was a real pushback against those natural tendencies.

It was a few days of sitting back, looking out the window, and letting the experience come to me. And in a world where travel so often feels rushed, transactional, and chaotic… that might be the real luxury.

How to book a Canyon Spirit train trip

Choose a two- or three-day journey through the American West aboard Canyon Spirit. Explore details and options on the Canyon Spirit website.

Note that Canadian versions of the journey still operate on Rocky Mountaineer-branded trains. Book a journey through Canada on Rocky Mountaineer’s website.

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